Good Friends We Have Had, Good Friends We Lost

'Brut Force With a Touch of Finesse'

The single-most enlivening part of my time in the wine industry, without a doubt, has been the people I’ve met. People drive me. Their quirks, life stories, clothing choices, cleanliness, eating habits, accents… they’re fascinating. From high-profile sommeliers to legendary winemakers and writers, I’ve shared some amazing dinners, been welcomed into people’s homes, and popped some stellar corks at my relatively young age. Those who have made my experiences most worthwhile up to this point, however, are all the young people I’ve met during my stint as a ‘traveling winemaker’. Sadly, last week I learned that one of those bright young stars is no longer with us. 

Niki Dow was a young guy from New Zealand I met last year during my brief ‘harvest’ time in California. He shared a tiny room in a modest suburban Santa Rosa apartment with some friends who were working at a different local winery. He was a seamless counterpart in the cellar. His constant, quick-witted grin was enough to make you laugh in even the most stressful situations, or elicit laughter in the calmest of times. He put up with the crazy antics of his Moldovan roommate ‘John’ who didn’t speak a lick of English, and even managed to convince us all that John was a good guy at heart, despite some of his outward antics. Niki lightened the mood for anyone who cared to share in conversation. His eloquent stories of his rugby days from college made me wish I could have spent time as a fit young kiwi bloke; I was stoked to get an old rugby shirt of his when he moved back to NZ, even though it had a few holes in it and plenty of stains from a tough vintage. His physical aptitude was apparent, and he seemed to be the type that succeeded in every task he took on. Nonetheless, he possessed the ‘Kiwi-Humble’ I’ve come to know and love; so overwhelmingly sarcastic and jabbing (in a lighthearted sense) upon first impression, but in the end full of compassion and friendship. Nik, as I knew him, embodied all that I’ve come to love about harvest. A young person, fresh out of school with the world ahead of him, when it was easier to find a fulltime, well-paying job at home and settle into normalcy he embarked on a journey to follow his dreams, better his craft and expand his world outlook.

With a number of vintages under my belt I’ve gotten pretty good at saying goodbye. We, as seasonal harvest workers spend so many hours together in a relatively short timeframe. Best friends are made alongside the wine, and when it’s all said and done, everyone usually parts ways and moves on to the next job. I have fostered some high quality friendships and kept in touch with a few people, but have also lost touch with many more I was sure to see again. The wine industry is so small though that you never know when you might one day cross paths with an old friend. I somehow figured that would happen with Nik so his passing hit me like a bag of bricks. Maybe it’s also because it could have been me if I hadn’t decided to stay home this vintage. Maybe because it’s a harsh realization of hope, so quickly lost. He was in Portugal working for a world-class Port producer, a job that isn’t given to just anyone. Only 23 years old, he was surely brimming with excitement and infusing the locals with his positively high-octane energy. They were surely challenged, yet humbled by his work ethic, so notable it has inspired a Facebook tribute group called ‘TheLegacy of the War Donkey-Niki Dow’.  I encourage you to check it out.

After sorting through the emotions in his passing, I move forth with a renewed energy and outlook. I’ve reached out to a few old friends who deserve a better effort from me. I’m going to do a better job of busying myself with work that I truly love, push myself to physical and intellectual extremes, and be sure to laugh a little more often, knowing that today could be my last.

Cheers to you Nik! You will be missed, but your legend will live on and inspire us all.

#PTWineInvasion

Ahh, Portugal. The word itself, for me is wrapped in layers of vivid memories. Scholastic details from my time as a student in Political Science, poetic and aural representations from two weeks traveling within its borders, and sensory particulars that have built up over the years tasting wine. I have a small place in my heart for the wines and people of Portugal that traces back to some of my very first experiences in the wine industry; I interned for an importer during my final semesters of College and spent my weekend evenings behind a tasting bar educating people about unique Portuguese wines while my peers were out getting inebriated on god knows what.

Recently I welcomed Portugal back into my life in the form of the Portuguese Wine Invasion.

In short summary, A Midwest-born-wine-loving expat who now lives in Portugal wanted to spread the love of his new(ish) home and its wines in his former home. So, he gathered a few Portuguese cohorts and embarked on the ‘All American Roadtrip’ around the Midwest, a region that all too often gets left out when it comes to important wine events. Ryan Opaz, the aforementioned expat, curates a killer blog with his wife Gabriella called Catavino.net. I’ve been a fan for years now. It’s quite possibly the first wine blog I started following and I’d be willing to bet it was one of the first comprehensive wine blogs in general.  Needless to say, I was pretty stoked to meet Ryan and amazed at how small the world, particularly the wine world can become.

They came prepared

The itinerary for their trip did not include a Madison event (where I now call home) but with a few tweets and email exchanges we were able to throw something together last minute. En route from Chicago to Minneapolis, Madison proved to be a perfect spot for a lunch and informal tasting at a friend's wine store, Square Wine Company.  The food from famed Madison deli Stalzy’s made for some interesting pairings, even inspiring a twitter hashtag #delimeetsduoro. Few foods represent American culture more for me than a greasy Reuben and potato chips so it was fun to share and see how the Portuguese wines stood up. 

Andrea Hillsey of SquareWineCo

I was humbled by the positive energy and kindness of the group who was on day 5 on the road in a cramped van. Julia, Pedro, Vitor, and Oscar, the four Portuguese natives, filled the wine shop with smiles and stories upon arrival. Almost with no introduction we found ourselves in a tasting that felt more like a gathering of old friends than a wine showcase by mere strangers. Each wine had a story, it wasn’t just juice in the glass; the history, innovation, family and tradition involved in each and every wine was shared by the very people responsible for producing it.

Pedro Poças Pintão and Ryan Opaz share a laugh

Besides the fact that it was an all around casual and fun event, I took a few important things away that I think are worth sharing:

In Portugal, Blends are King

There are hundreds of different indigenous grape varietals, most all of which are nearly impossible for a native English speaker to pronounce. Many winemakers are forgoing single varietal bottlings and instead focusing on blending unique wines that harness the different characteristics of the grapes in a particular region. The still wines of Poças were a fine representation.

Pedro Poças Pintão

Vinho Verde Can Age

A surprise that shouldn’t be, given the acid content and structure of the finest of these wines. Ryan spoke of a recent experience drinking a 15 year old Vinho Verde that tasted as if it was just coming into its prime. The young wines of Quinta de Gomariz were incredibly complex with stunning aromatics, worlds away from the $5 ‘Vinho Verde’ that most of us are used to from the bottom shelf in the grocery store. I’d surely love to taste some of them in ten years time.

Vitor Mendes of Quinta de Gomariz gets serious with
Madison's Ruben Mendez of L'Etoile

New World in the Old World

Not a single wine I tasted was flawed or ‘dirty’ and it seems a high standard has been set for ‘modern’ winemaking techniques across the board. Julia Kemper is lawyer by trade who took over her family’s estate because there was nobody else to do so. She was enthusiastic in describing the technology and investment that go into her winemaking, while preserving the heritage and tradition of the land that she has inherited. Julia deserves a nod for her wines of balance that don’t scream heavy oak, high alcohol, or obscene fruit concentration.

Julia Kemper

We Need More White Port

Somewhat of a rarity in the American market, white port is much like its red counterpart, only made with white grapes. When Oscar Quevedo presented his white port to the crowd, he needed relatively little explanation. Insanely sweet-herbal aromatics preceded a strikingly dry-ish finish. Need a summer cocktail? Mix it or any other white port 1:1 with tonic water on ice. It’s what the Portuguese drink on the regular, Portonic!

Oscar Quevedo shares his white port

GO TO PORTUGAL!!! 

The #PTWineInvasion extended a big-fat wide-open invite to anyone and everyone to visit and seemed more than willing to help out in making it happen. If there was one message they stressed more than any other, it was how much they wanted visitors to come experience Portugal and its people, wine, food, music, art, history, and culture.

Vitor was all smiles

Thank you to Ryan Opaz for taking the time to stop in Madison with your wonderful crew. Thank you Vitor, Oscar, Pedro and Julia for sharing your wines and your stories. I hope that you felt your time was well spent and that maybe this will turn into a (semi)annual event. Thank you to Andrea at SquareWineCo for hosting the gathering at her shop, Emily for hand washing all the stemware when it was over, Andre Darlington for wrangling the troops. Thank you also to Eric Baillies for capturing the smiles and intrigue in each and every photo.

Check out the website www.PortugueseWineInvasion.com for a wealth of information and dispatches from their time on the road.

The aftermath

Cheers to Portugal!

Nothing in Particular

Usually when I write in this space I have a wine in mind, or a wine-related topic that has saturated my mind to the point of inspired writing. At the moment the things I'm amped on are: Portuguese bargains, Burgundy, current releases of wines I had a hand in making, and as previously stated, Syrah. I'm not going to write about these though.

Currently I have a glass of 2007 J Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon perched on the end-table beside me (it was a sample from a salesperson today at work; typically I don't shell out $40 for just any wine, but I can assure you that if you do enjoy Cabernet Sauvignon from California or know someone who does, this wine is worthy of a special occasion, especially if you have an aerator or nice decanter on hand). 89 points from my un-sophisticated palate.

I'm not typically a Cab drinker, not because I don't enjoy me a good one (the last NICE Cab I opened was a Caymus 2007, also a sample, that I had saved for a grass-fed steak dinner and a special Port reduction sauce I concocted), but because being the wine-geek I am, I'd much rather spend some extra cash on a bottle of Sancerre or single vineyard Rioja (whenever I open a bottle I first look it up on Winespectator.com, then tend to hit up the winery website for some info, then consult THE WORLD ATLAS OF WINE to research the region if I'm not familiar, and then possibly more online digging if I'm not satisfied). Needless to say, it doesn't sound like much enjoyment goes into drinking wine for me, but I can assure you, I savor every last drop, and for me, knowing the most I can about where, how, and by who a wine was produced, makes the experience all the more worth while.

Back to the non-theme of tonight. I was outside smoking an unhealthy, yet appreciated, cigarette enjoying the tranquility of the night and the 14 plus inches of snow that has recently befallen our city. Amidst the city streetlights, the sirens, snow-stuck cars, and dogs barking, I noticed that a neighbor in the building across the street had their window open (it is no warmer than 20 degrees Fahrenheit this evening) with a speaker pointing outside. How refreshing to be a part of a summer scene on a winter's eve? Even more-so, it was some of the folk music that has become so mainstream, enjoyable to my elitist musician's ear, but not acoustic as most that I've been digging on lately. 'Twas electric. I thank the neighbor for making that moment just a little bit sweeter for me. I nearly walked across the street and shouted into their apartment to ask who was the artist, but stopped and merely savored the moment. I thought and thought about a wine that would suit the moment well, stylistically what would match a heavy snowfall or in my experiences what goes best with folk music. I'm excited for future posts where I might pair wine with songs, but tonight my friends, it's all about seizing the day.

Crack open whatever bottle is near, or finish the one you started whether it was $5 or $50. Wine is such a critical part of my daily existence and I hope that in the coming year I can show you how the same can work for you. Thanks to all who have offered suggestions on future posts. I'm excited for what's to come, including videos if plans fall into place. Until then,
Cheers!

*And on a more serious note, please take a moment to think about, pray for, meditate on, or simply acknowledge our fellow human beings across the world, especially in the Middle East (where wine originated), and be thankful for all of our blessings.

PeAcE

My New Place in the World

This week marks my 'debut' as the 'wine-guy' at our northern Twin Cities stores, Northgate Liquors, in Blaine and Andover. Though I've already been there for three months now, which feels like much shorter, I have finally settled in and started to grow with the company. Doug's Dozen is the theme of our weekly email that comes out tomorrow where I pick 12 of my favorite wines we carry in the store. I will be pouring and talking about them at a tasting on Friday and Saturday nights. It's quite flattering to have the responsibility and respect that I've been given and I'm gracious to the ownership and management for that opportunity. I picked wines across the spectrum of price, flavor, and location, from a cheap Portugese Vinho Verde, to a Tarry French Vacqueyras, a fresh box of Italian Garganega, and a pricier Oregon Pinot (Penner-Ash where I got my winemaking start). I'm really excited to get people's opinions and showcase some unique and value driven wines that many people are unfamiliar with. It's been great getting to meet many people who have been in the local industry for years and share stories on our experiences; many of my friends who have relatively little experience with wine have also enjoyed the abundance of wine open at our place and the conversation and learning that comes with it. I don't quite know how I fit in to the bigger picture of the wine industry yet, as I am STILL getting a foothold, but as each day passes I thrive on the new experiences and opportunities that come my way.
As my Brazilian neighbor would say, Saude!